Michael Cardoza is a full-fledged bon vivant…and a bit of a Don Juan. He knows the way to the hearts of members of San Diego’s brewing community is through their stomachs. A fan of local beer since the early ‘90s, he goes out of his way to keep local brewery staffers—from brewers to front-of-house—feeling equal parts full and appreciated courtesy of homemade, confection-stocked care packages.
“Beer industry folks never have time to eat, so I like to give them something quick and easy they can have a bite of now and finish later,” says Cardoza, speaking of a small-but-mighty variety of cookies he’s become known for among San Diego brewers in recent years.
Cardoza’s love of San Diego beer began when he was a college student working downtown. Strapped for cash, he was happy to stumble on Hang Ten Brewing, where there was cheap food and pitchers of beer far more exotic than standard kegger fare. Pitchers of house brews gave way to bombers of Pete’s Wicked Ale and Arrogant Bastard Ale on ski excursions, followed by Costco-procured cases of Karl Strauss’ Red Trolley Ale. But it wasn’t until he and his wife Rebecca began venturing to the places from which their beer hailed that his “homegrown obsession” took its ultimate shape.
“The first people I met in the brewing industry were at Green Flash’s original location in Vista,” he says. It was there he shared conversations with former brewmaster Chuck Silva and discovered beer industry people have a lot of passion and much to share. “I like to collect stories. It’s amazing the education and mastery the people making our beer have, and how willing they are to offer it up to people who are interested.”
Cardoza recalls a trip he and his wife took to Napa 14 years ago. They went wine tasting, because “that’s what you do when you’re in Napa.” They enjoyed it just fine, but the following year they returned to Northern California and went to breweries instead, and says they had way more fun. Why?
“It’s the people. The beer is the body, mind and soul of the people who are making it. It’s a community.”
Cardoza has become known throughout that community as a regular patron of numerous interests. His most frequented haunts include Burning Beard Brewing, Benchmark Brewing, North Park Beer Co., Amplified Ale Works and, most recently, Eppig Brewing. Cardoza says 99.9% of the reason he returns to all of them is the atmosphere and the people. And when the latter see him coming, it’s not odd for them to salivate a bit. Enter, the cookie man.
One day, Cardoza heard a bartender-slash-friend at Toronado San Diego was having “the shittiest of shittiest days,” so he went home and baked a batch of chocolate chip cookies that he later delivered to her at the bar. She said that act of kindness turned her entire day and mood around. It was a watershed moment for Cardoza, who now makes impromptu cookie deliveries to his favorite watering holes on a regular basis.
“Chocolate chip cookies are a little sweet for my taste, so I decided to add another ingredient and experimented with dried fruits. I started with raisins and cranberries before discovering sour cherries were the best,” he says. “I like to add alcohol to everything I do, so I started soaking the cherries in spirits. When I tried them with bourbon, it changed everything.”
So, too, did a conversation with Burning Beard head brewer Jeff Wiederkehr, who suggested he incorporate oats. His rationale was that, much like with spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg, brewers incorporate oats into some of their beers, which would make for a good beer-and-cookie pairing; a real “brewer’s cookie.” The result is a toothier confection with similar flavor, increased spice, and more to offer from a texture perspective.
And Cardoza’s no one-trick pony. He also won a chili cook-off at Burning Beard with a game-meat version of a football-season chili recipe he and his dad have perfected over the years, winning the first publicly-sold sixtel from the El Cajon brewery in the process. In celebration of Cardoza’s West Coaster ink, cookie-and-beer tastings are planned at Burning Beard (February 15), Amplified Ale Works in Pacific Beach (February 21), and North Park Beer Co. (February 28).
Can’t wait that long to try those cookies? No problem. Being the generous soul he is, Cardoza is sharing recipes for two varieties with readers. Consider it a Valentine for the San Diego beer community.
Bourbon-soaked Cherry & Chocolate Chip Cookies
paired with North Park Beer Co.’s Golden Phoenix Golden Milk Stout
Yield: About 6 dozen 2-inch cookies
½ cup dried tart cherries
½ cup bourbon whiskey
1 cup unsalted butter, softened (or margarine, to substitute)
¾ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup light brown sugar, packed
2 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
2¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt
11½ oz. bittersweet chocolate chips
1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped (optional)
Place the cherries in a small, non-reactive container. Cover with bourbon and soak for 20 minutes. Drain the cherries and set aside.
Preheat oven to 375º F.
Place the butter and sugars in a large mixing bowl or electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix at medium speed until the mixture is creamy and light yellow in color, about 4 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix until fully incorporated. Mix in the vanilla. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking soda and salt. Mix in the dry ingredients in 3 batches. Stir in the chocolate chips, nuts and cherries. Drop the dough, 1 rounded tablespoon at a time, onto ungreased cookie sheets. Place in the oven and bake for 9 to 11 minutes, or until golden-brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 1 minute before transferring to a wire rack to cool to room temperature. Serve or store in an airtight container for transporting to your favorite brewery.
* NOTE: The semisweet chocolate chips can be replaced with any variety of chip you prefer (e.g., milk chocolate, bittersweet chocolate, etc.)
Bourbon-soaked Cherry & Dark Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies
paired with Benchmark Brewing’s Oatmeal Stout
Yield: About 6 dozen 2-inch cookies
½ cup dried tart cherries
½ cup bourbon whiskey
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
¾ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup light brown sugar, packed
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp cinnamon
⅛ nutmeg
½ tsp salt
3 cups raw oats
12 ounces bittersweet chocolate chips (preferably Ghirardelli)
1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped (optional)
Place the cherries in a small, non-reactive container. Cover with bourbon and soak for 20 minutes. Drain the cherries and set aside.
Preheat oven to 375º F.
Place the butter and sugars in a large mixing bowl or electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix at medium speed until the mixture is creamy and light yellow in color, about 4 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla, and mix until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Mix in the dry ingredients. Stir in the oats. Fold in the chocolate chips, nuts and cherries. Drop the dough, 1 rounded tablespoon at a time, onto ungreased cookie sheets. Place in the oven and bake 8 to 9 minutes for a chewy cookie, or 10 to 11 minutes for a crispy cookie. Remove from the oven and let cool for 1 minute before transferring to a wire rack to cool to room temperature. Serve or store in an airtight container for transporting to your favorite brewery.
—Recipes and pairings courtesy Michael Cardoza