The initial idea with this Plates and Pints column was to provide readers with a great recipe for a seafood classic – the humble yet luxurious lobster roll. The process for preparing one is far from complicated, but the devil’s in the details and I wanted to dial in the amounts with a local business that had this simple art down to a science. Knowing the commitment to honoring the creatures from the deep blue sea, including sustainable sourcing of those fish and shellfish, I thought of Beerfish on Adams Avenue. And the fact this offshoot of longtime Point Loma craft-beer standout, Sessions Public, sports an excellent ale and lager list sealed the deal.
So, I cast my line to this web-footed shoe-in to gauge the interest of executive chef RoseAna Peyron (formerly of Bay Park’s The High Dive). She and her cohorts were game, but they had one request: to focus on something besides Beerfish’s lobster roll. To them, while delicious, it was too traditional, and they preferred to share recipes for some of their more unique and creative spins on seafood classics. A fan of turning recipes on their head, I was happy to cut bait and chart a new course. And I ended up reeling in a pair of whoppers.
First up is Beerfish’s BLT. In addition to bacon, lettuce and tomato, theirs is stuffed with a hearty helping of sweet crabmeat. Mayonnaise infused with fresh-squeezed lemon juice brightens the dish and helps it pair with sunny weather that can be taken in on the restaurant’s patio.
Then there’s the purely SoCal take on a British-pub favorite Peyron has come up with – a fish and chips burrito. Alaskan cod fried up in a batter built using Plenty For All Pilsner from nearby Fall Brewing Company gets California burrito treatment, rolled up with French fries and a pair of condiments – malt vinegar mayo and tartar sauce—plus some cole slaw for good measure. These innovative and similarly easy-to-make recipes eliminated any sadness I had over the (temporary) abandonment of my quest for the perfect lobster roll.
That said, folks who would appreciate a good lobster roll, or other seafood staples like clam chowder in a bread-bowl or fresh-shucked oysters can still find them all in a pinch. All of that and more, including clam sourdough toast, line-caught Coho salmon on focaccia and crispy oyster sliders – plus 30 taps of rotating and reliably tasty beer – can be had at this intimate seafood spot.
Click “read more” for Crab BLT and F&C Burrito recipes.
Crab BLT
Yield: 4 sandwiches
5 Tbsp mayonnaise
1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 hot-dog buns or halved brioche rolls
¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
4 large or 8 small leaves little gem lettuce
8 strips smoky bacon, cooked
16 oz sustainable jumbo lump blue crab meat
24 cherry or pear tomatoes, halved
lemon wedges
In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and lemon juice. Brush the buns or rolls with butter, then toast until golden-brown in an oven or on a griddle. Remove from heat and spread mayonnaise onto toasted buns. Layer with lettuce and bacon, then pile on the crab meat. Add an even layer of tomatoes, garnish with a squeeze of lemon and serve.
Suggested Beer Pairing: The Harlot from Societe Brewing pairs well with this dish. The Belgian-style extra ale complements the flavors of the Crab BLT, while the Belgian yeast creates a bridge between the smoky bacon and the citrusy lemon mayo.
The F&C Burrito
Yield: 4 burritos
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 tsp malt vinegar
canola oil for frying
all-purpose flour
pilsner-style beer (preferably Fall Brewing Plenty For All)
8 3-ounce pieces, wild, sustainable Alaskan cod
1 Tbsp salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
4 14-inch flour tortillas, warmed and lightly browned
¾ cup tartar sauce
3 cups French fries, cooked
1½ cups cole slaw
Whisk together the mayonnaise and malt vinegar, and set aside.
Preheat oil to 375 degrees Fahrenheit in a deep-fryer or large pot. Whisk together the flour and beer. Season the cod with salt and pepper, then dredge in the batter. Allow any excess batter to drip off, then transfer the fish to the oil and fry in batches until golden-brown, about 4 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain on a plate lined with paper towels.
To assemble, lay the tortillas out on a flat surface. Spread tartar sauce and mayonnaise onto the tortilla, then layer with French fries, cole slaw and fish. Wrap into a burrito and serve immediately.
Suggested Beer Pairing: Fall Brewing’s Plenty For All Pilsner. The crisp and bright pilsner complements the beer batter and cuts through the tartar sauce and malt vinegar aioli. Plenty For All is very sessionable and not overly filling, so you can actually finish the burrito.