Culver Beer Company…isn’t that in LA? asked my beer-touring companion as we embarked on the first of four stops for the day. It was then I explained what the business’ owners likely address all the time. Culver Beer Company (2719 Loker Avenue West, Carlsbad) was conceived as Palomar Brewing Company before its founders were forced to change course and rename the operation shortly before it opened. In love with its dove-centric logo, they switched over to Culver Beer Company and the rest is a short and rather simple history. The business opened near what would have been the airport of the same name in Carlsbad late last month and already has an extensive array of beers to offer.
On my visit, a whopping 11 ales awaited adorned with playful names laid out against a color spectrum pattern subtly hinting at each brew’s SRM or level of hoppiness. The beer-board provides a pop of color in a tasting room that is exclusively outfitted in earth tones. Oak barrels mix nicely with the wood bar-tops, a portal-like structure framing the aforementioned peaceful-bird logo and a rather cool tunnel segueing visitors from a cold, nondescript business suite façade into the tastefully dark, intimate tasting room. Walking through the door is kind of like entering Pirates of the Caribbean at Disneyland; but a few feet traversed, all memories of the outside world forgotten.
On the beer-front, offerings are largely Belgian-style or hop-driven. Owner Mike Stevenson loves brewing the former, but realizes the importance of the latter in satisfying his clientele. It would seem splitting focus on two such disparate tracts has taken a bit of a toll on the entire line-up. There is serious promise for beers on both the Belgo and SoCal sides, but the full potential of any of the beers has yet to be realized. But it’s early for Stevenson and co-owner Ben Fairweather, and there was plenty to like about the first-draft beers I sampled.
Stevenson’s Belgophile status shows in a tripel called Tiger Ride that’s big in citrus-fruit flavor with a touch of Bazooka-like bubble-gum essence. At 8% alcohol-by-volume it’s not as heavy or alcoholic-tasting as tripels coming in at the higher end of the ABV scale (9 or 10%), keeping the beer easy to drink. Conversely, a saison called Strange Ways is higher than most farmhouse ales at 6.8%, but remains quaffable. It’s rather similar in flavor to the Tiger Ride, but not nearly as sweet. And the best of the hoppy bunch, for me, was True Hero, a double IPA with piney, character courtesy of Chinook and Centennial hops that Stevenson worked some professional connections to get a hold of.
A single IPA dubbed Street Walker was woody versus piney, and tasted more tea-like than earthy or spicy. The flavors were dull and grainy to me, but my fellow beer-tourist (who is much more of an India pale ale aficionado than I am) thought it was pretty good. Pony Up pale was balanced and unobtrusive, but could use a bit more punch. Similarly, the house wit was fine, but a bit watery, and the Irish red could use a bit more caramel sweetness to enhance its depth. The added sweetness of Dirty Bird, a version of that red served on nitro with house-made Amaretto, seemed to accomplish that nicely while bringing in a touch of cherry fruitiness. On the dark end of the spectrum, a stout called Daily Routine was a little too bitter and seemed smokier than it was roasty, but a nitro take on that beer infused with vanilla covered up any ashen defects and came across downright delightful.
It’s a bit of a mixed bag, but one that’s more than half-full. And that sack figures to get even more crowded soon. A cream ale, Pilsner and six-percent alcohol-by-volume IPA are on their way. Variety, a well-built space and attention to personal desires in tandem with those of patrons’ are big plusses that should keep Culver on the right track as it grows and refines its line-up.