There are many possible reasons why San Diegans aren’t cool to the idea of going out for a beer in Mission or Pacific Beach. It could be the gratuitous display of abdominal muscles; the cognitive dissonance of mingling imperial stout-sipping with sunny, outdoor activities; the painful memory of the erstwhile Liars’ Club; the areas’ propensity for attracting snowbirds.
However, all these perceptions don’t conform to the current, growing reality of the beaches’ craft beer scene, which is booming and demands notice.
“People don’t associate [Mission Beach] with good craft beer, but with domestic macro beers,” Darren Renna says. Renna is manager of the half-century-old Coaster Saloon that underwent an artisanal beer makeover after a kitchen fire in 2007. Recently, Renna increased the taps for a second time — it’s up to 52 — and added a monthly cask night focusing on local brews. Macro brews aren’t out entirely, though, and will still have a presence on the tap list.
Renna mentioned that he sees an uptick in the number of craft beer consumers in his establishment, but there’s still a long way to go in changing the neighborhood’s perception. After all, Bud Light keg-stands on the beach are a thing of the recent past.
“PB has long been characterized by over-consumption and DUIs, but a lot of that comes from the influx of day visitors on the weekends,” J.C. Hill adds, a long-time Crown Point resident. Hill also owns Cali Kebab, and is co-brewer at the attached Amplified Ale Works in Pacific Beach. “It has a club scene reputation.”
“I was the same as any other craft beer drinker; I went to North Park when I wanted a good beer,” Renna says. “But I think the crowd will flip.”
“Alex [co-owner] and I would often venture to Ocean Beach or North Park to try beers we couldn’t get in PB,” Hill says. “Now, there’s more variety in the beach area, and more bar owners are realizing the importance of having craft beer.”
Taking inspiration from Blind Lady Ale House, Cali Kebab is using a stainless steel, direct draw system and pouring honest pints — half-liter glasses that allow a two-finger head to on a full 16 oz. pour.
Amplified Ale Works opened during San Diego Beer Week 2012 within Cali Kebab, and is now the second brewpub directly along Mission Blvd., with PB AleHouse to the north. This is no small feat for the area, considering real estate prices along the coast and the cost of brewing equipment.
“Vince at [PB] AleHouse is a great brewer, and he was really supportive by helping us dial in some of our equipment,” Hill adds. “I wouldn’t mind seeing some bars convert to breweries though; more breweries in the area would definitely draw more craft beer drinkers from around San Diego.” With several beach-side restaurants adding craft tap handles and brewing facilities, the hope is for beer-savvy clientele to begin their walk out of the cornfields of North Park. But Peter Perrecone, beer buyer at San Diego TapRoom in Pacific Beach, says that targeting craft beer devotees isn’t necessarily the best approach.
“They have their loyalties already to their bars, to their area,” Perrecone says. “But college kids can come into a craft beer-focused establishment and learn.”
“It’s more about educating new drinkers toward better beers than converting devotees away from bars where they have an emotional connection. It’s really hard to get people to step that far outside their comfort zone; it’s easier to create a comfort zone from scratch with new drinkers.”
Renna agrees. The college demographic — that cyclically resides and carouses at the beach — is more likely to warm to craft beer, and those in areas with more established venues are less likely to give up their favorite bar stools and head to the beach.
But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth trying to sway the growing population of veteran, educated, San Diego beer drinkers and their tastes.
In November, Brewery Tours of San Diego collaborated with beachside bars — spearheaded by Bare Back Grill, with TapRoom, Ciro’s Pizzeria, Cali Kebab and The High Dive in Bay Park participating —for a pub crawl aboard Brewery Tours busses, mitigating the ever-present threat of alcohol-related accidents and DUIs.
Brewery Tours co-founder Jon McDermott says the number of people on the tour can vary from two people up to 25, but that there’s a burgeoning young demographic growing more aware of the expanse of beer options at the beach. McDermott’s company also tours North Park and Point Loma area pubs for similar crawls.
McDermott also noted that while PB is a hotbed for alcohol-related incidents, the craft beer community is perceived as responsible and not a contributor to those problems. Even long-time locals and beach natives are among the people pushing the beach beer scene forward.
“(Business Improvement District) Discover PB is a huge supporter of ours,” Hill says proudly. “The Rotary Club meets here and our locals are very receptive to the format. There’s a market here for laid back places at the beach — no macros, no booze, no blaring Top 40 hits — to drink good beer.”